Vegetable Dyes
The earliest dyes were of vegetable origin,
discovered by accidentally staining garments
with juices of fruits or plants. Vegetable dyes
are obtained from different parts of plants
such as leaves, flowers, fruits, pods, bark etc.
These vegetable dyes can be applied directly
or with different mordants.
● Indigo: Indigo (blue dye) is called
as the king of all natural dyestuffs.
It imparts blue colour. It is extracted
from the leaves of the leguminous
plant, Indigofera tinctoria. It is suitable
for dyeing cotton and wool.
● Indian Madder: It produces shades
of red on textile fabrics. It is used for
dyeing cotton and woollen fabrics. It is
extracted from roots of Rubia tinctoria.
● Turmeric: It produces shades of yellow
on fabrics. It is suitable for dyeing
cotton, silk and wool. The yellow dye
is extracted from the ground root
(rhizome) of turmeric plant (Curcuma
longa).
● Marigold: It is extracted from lemon or
orange coloured marigold (Calendula
officinalis) flower. It is suitable for
dyeing both silk and wool fibres.
● Henna: The dye is extracted from the
dried leaves of Henna plant, Lawsonia
inermis. It produces yellowish orange
colour. It is suitable for dyeing wool
and silk fibres.
● Tea: Leaves of tea plants (Camellia
sinensis) or tea powder is used to
extract dye. It produces different
shades of brown.
● Onion: The dye is extracted from the
outer most skin or peel of the onion
(Allium cepa). The onion skins if properly
dried can be used for one yearAnimal Dyes
Dyes extracted from certain insects and
invertebrates are called as animal dyes.
Various shades of red and purple were
obtained from animal origin. Cochineal,
Tyrian purple and Lac are the commonly
used animal dyes.
1. Cochineal
Cochineal dye is extracted from
the dried bodies of the female
red bug (Dactylopius coccus). It
produces crimson and scarlet
colours with mordants aluminium
and tin oxide. This dyestuff was
mostly used for dyeing wool and
silk. These dyes exhibit excellent
fastness properties.
2. Tyrian Purple
This dye is extracted from the sea
snails found in Mediterranean Sea.
The amount of dye produced was
very limited and therefore very
expensive. Hence, it is called Royal
purple.
3. Lac Dye
This dye is extracted from the fluid
secreted by the lac insect (Lauifer
lacca), which lives on the twigs of
the banyan trees and other varieties. It produces crimson and scarlet
colours. These dyes possess good
fastness to light and washing.
Animal dyes are also obtained from
murex snail (purple colour) and Octopus/
Cuttle fish (Sepia brown).
How invention of col
Mineral Dyes
Dyes extracted from mineral sources are
called as mineral dyes. Most widely used
mineral dyes are Iron, which produces
yellowish brown shades, chrome yellow,
prussian blue and manganese brown. The
dyes obtained from mineral sources may
be poisonous and hence are not being
used commercially
Synthetic Dyes
Dyes that are produced chemically are called
as synthetic dyes. These are classified based
on the chemical composition of the dye.
Direct Dyes
When a dye colours the fabric directly
without the help of any fixing agent,
the dye is said to be a direct dye. Direct
dyes are water soluble. They are easy to
produce, simple to apply and cheap in
cost of production and application. Direct
dyes are anionic in nature and have greater
affinity for cellulosic fibres. They are used
to dye cellulose fibres without a mordant
in bright shades and they produce a wide
range of colours. A levelling agent such
as sodium carbonate is added for even
dyeing. At the end of dyeing, exhaustion
agent such as salt (NaCl) is added which
helps the dye to leave the liquor and get
attached to the fibre. Some direct dyes
are used to dye wool, silk and nylon.
Direct dyes can be applied to wide variety
of textile materials such as apparel,
upholstery fabrics, draperies, linings
and automotive fabrics. Most direct dyes
have good fastness to light but poor wash
fastness.
Reactive Dyes
Dyes that react with the fibres and form
covalent bonds are called as reactive dyes.
They become an integral part of the fibre.
They are water soluble and are used to
dye cellulose, protein and polyamide
fibres. They produce full range of bright
shade across the spectrum. They exhibit
excellent wash fastness and good light
fastness properties. Dyeing of fibre with
reactive dyes involves 3 steps, namely
exhaustion of dye (NaCl or Glauber’s salt), fixation of dye (sodium carbonate or
sodium hydroxide) and washing off.
Basic Dyes
Basic dyes have cationic or basic groups
(positively charged) and hence they are
also known as cationic dyes. Basic dyes
react with the acidic groups present in
the fibres and form electrovalent bonds.
Basic dyes are soluble in alcohol but not
easily soluble in water. Basic dyes exhibit
brilliant shades of colour which is not
shown by other dye classes. Basic dyes are
suitable for dyeing wool, silk and acrylic,
but they have no affinity towards cellulosic
fabrics. Basic dyes are used along with a
mordant for fibres such as cotton, linen,
acetate, nylon and polyester. Basic dyes
show moderate light and wash fastness.
For dye preparation, the dyestuff is mixed
with equal amount of acetic acid followed
by warm water under constant stirring.
Acid Dyes
Water soluble dyes that require acid
(sulphuric, acetic, formic acid etc.,) in dye
bath to dye silk or wool are called as acid
dyes. These acid dyes are mostly sodium
salts of organic acids. When dissolved in
water, acid dyes produce negative ions
(anions or acidic groups) which react
with positive ions of protein fibres and get
attached to the fibre through electrovalent
bonds. Acid dyes are similar to direct
dyes however they cannot be applied to
cellulosic fibre due to slight variations in
structure. Acid dyes have greater affinity
for protein and polyamide fibres. They
posses very good fastness to washing
and good fastness to light. A large colour
range is available with acid dyes. They are
inexpensive.



























